This 1969 Martin D-45, one of the last brazilian rosewood D-45s from regular production, was bought by Kovacik Guitars in October of 2004 from it's original owner.  The previous owner had played the guitar consistantly for about 20 years, using the guitar for bar and club gigs.  Sometime in the late 80s he became disabled and no longer able to play guitar, so it sat under his bed for most of the last 15 years.  When the guitar was offered on ebay, Kovacik Guitars purchased the guitar for repair and resale.

 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS:  When the guitar arrived there were many issues that needed to be addressed before presenting the guitar for sale.  The guitar had a small section of fretboard binding missing, heavy fret wear and the finish behind the 'cowboy chord' area of the neck (first position) was worn through to the wood.  In addition, the guitar had a 13" crack in the lower bout of the treble side .
The crack was very clean with no wood loss or splintering, and very little finish loss along the seam.  The original bridge was cracked straight through it's width.
The worst of the issues with the guitar though was that there was considerable top wear beneath the shadow of the original pickguard and at the treble wing of the bridge. At some point the previous owner had also attached an oversized 'cowboy' pickguard to prevent further top damage.  That pickguard (as well as the original) was long gone, revealing the heavy top wear.  Furthermore, there was an opaque glue of some sort stuck to the area where the wear was heaviest, and there appeared to be some sort of black ink or paint suspended in that glue.  The result was a top that was a terrible mess and could threaten to severely degrade the value of the guitar.
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TOP REPAIRS:  The mess that was made on this top caused quite a bit of anxiety regarding the possible outcomes.  When I began the process of removing the gluey mess it appeared that the black ink or paint was in suspention in the glue.  If that was the case, the prognosis for clean up was good.  If the black spots were on the top of the bare wood in the worn area, I was in for trouble.  The hope here was that I could clean up the top goop and seal the washboarded areas, allowing me to restor a proper pickguard to the top and leave the strum wear exposed. 
 
The glue that was on the top seemed to soften slightly when exposed just to the heat of my hands on the surface.  It appeared very likely that it was white glue of some kind.  With the use of a hairdryer to heat the area slightly , I found that the glue bond with the top loosened very easily.

 

   
SIDE CRACK:  Given that the side crack was straight and clean with no splintering or wood loss this repair was rather simple.  As I've demonstrated in other repair articles for this website, the crack was first dry clamped in the proper alignment . 
Once the clamping pressure was holding the crack closed and level along it's entire length, the crack was glued with cyano-acrylic glue applied in very small amounts with a micro-fine pipette
The water thin glue flows with wicking-action into the closed crack.  Caution must be used so that the glue does not bead up on the surface, as it will eat the surrounding finish and will dry in a hard bead that then has to be sanded flush.  Once the entire crack is glued closed I used an aggressive lacquer solvent to soften the seam edges of the lacquer along the crack.  The solvent was applied with an artist's brush rather sparingly, the goal being softening the surface lacquer along the edge to provide a good bond for new lacquer to be applied to the seam.  New lacquer was then applied, sparingly, in successive coats with an artist's brush over top of the crack seam.  After several applications and adequate curing time, the seam was lightly sanded with 400 grit paper, and the lacquer application process repeated.  This method was repeated until the crack seam was blended with the new lacquer that was added.  This method resulted in a very good surface and without the scatter of lacquer over the entire side area as would have been the case had I chosen to shoot the lacquer with a spray gun or Preval type sprayer.
 

 

 

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